What’s more, the composition of a starter culture—the specific combination of bacteria and yeast—is as unique as a fingerprint, shaped by its environment and ingredients.

“Nixtamalization, like other indigenous knowledge, is rooted in our culture, and it’s very important for me to help keep this tradition alive by using it to make masa the traditional way, but also teaching others about it,” says Julian. He has partnered with other local chefs to teach classes and feed people corn products made with freshly-made stoned-ground masa.

As a pastry chef, who was eager to switch the main ingredient in my baked goods for a local, more sustainable option, not finding local sources was a massive obstacle. Since then, flour made from locally grown grains, including rye and many other wheat varieties, have fortunately become more available from local millers and bakers.